September 05, 2017
Choosing the right DC-DC PSU
August 27, 2015
AMD's Project Quantum
August 13, 2015
The Redstone PC is the ultimate Mini-ITX Minecraft Machine
October 09, 2014
The "Restomod TV"
April 09, 2013
February 28, 2013
Building an XBMC 12 Home Theatre PC
January 25, 2011
XBMC Guide updated to version 10.0
August 06, 2010
Building a Green PC
February 15, 2010
Building an ION powered HTPC with XBMC
October 10, 2008
The "Cambridge Autonomous Underwater Vehicle 2008"
September 12, 2008
"Florian", the DVD burning robot
September 05, 2008
May 22, 2008
April 14, 2007
The "Digg" Case
January 19, 2007
December 07, 2006
The "Tortoise Beetle"
October 02, 2006
The "DOS Head Unit"
August 31, 2006
The "Janus Project"
August 05, 2006
The "Leela PC"
June 26, 2006
Nano-ITX in a Football
May 17, 2006
The "EPIA Alloy Mod"
April 11, 2006
Neatorama's Collection of Case Mods
February 18, 2006
October 24, 2005
The "ITX TV"
October 06, 2005
August 05, 2005
The "Waffle Iron PC"
July 21, 2005
July 18, 2005
July 07, 2005
May 25, 2005
The "Accordion ITX"
May 16, 2005
May 15, 2005
The "Mini Falcon"
May 13, 2005
The "Bender PC"
May 11, 2005
The "BBC ITX B"
May 10, 2005
April 20, 2005
March 09, 2005
The "Cool Cube"
January 30, 2005
First Nano-ITX Project?
January 17, 2005
January 15, 2005
The "Gumball PC"
December 15, 2004
The "Deco Box"
December 03, 2004
October 06, 2004
September 17, 2004
August 26, 2004
The "C1541 Disk Drive ITX"
August 25, 2004
August 13, 2004
The "Quiet Cubid"
August 06, 2004
July 14, 2004
The "Moo Cow Moo"
July 02, 2004
The "Mini Mesh Box"
Full alphabetical archive on right hand side of page...
The "Commodore 64 @ 933.000 Mhz"
By JJ aka DocLorren - Posted on April 28, 2003
Noticed the two Velcro strips on the DVD-player?
They are the attachment points for the harddisk that is mounted
on top of it (Maxtor D740X, 40 GB, 7200 RPM). Any concern
about the robustness of this construction evaporated after
playing with the optimal position of the harddisk. This is
a very secure way to fix stuff. Below you see an overview
of the, nearly completed system. I put in a round IDE cable
because it looks a lot better and provides a cleaner space
for (probably) better airflow. Also notice the abundant use
of tie wraps on the ATX power cable and USB/Firewire cable
for the same purpose.
On the right side the original C64 metal lid
can be seen. Normally this would house the power connector,
power button and the two joystick ports. I converted it by
glueing a piece of aluminum on the backside and drilled holes
in it to contain two leds and two push button switches. The
green led is lit when in "sleep mode", the red led
is the "on/off" indicator. The red button is for
resetting, the black one for powering up/down the system.
Cables were soldered on the leds and switches
and plugged in the board. The original power led on top of
the C64 casing was connected to the harddisk led output. That
way the disk activity can be easily monitored.
Ok, now with the bulk of the work done, this
is what the (almost) completed machine looked like.
The two round openings on the back were subsequently
closed by glueing another aluminum plate on the inside of
the case. In one, a hole was drilled to allow for the fitting
of the 12v power connector. The power for this C64 comes from
a crude PSU originally manufactured to power camping refrigerators.
For this humble but noble purpose, it delivers 13 volt and
5 amps, therefore it must also be able to provide the juice
needed for the EPIA to play DVDs and do some background tasks.
And besides it only cost 19.95 euros. You will be hard pressed
to find a OEM PSU for that money. Excellent value I would
suggest. Converting the cigarette lighter cable was a piece
After some preliminary test-runs the plans
for incorporating the PSU in the C64 casing were rejected.
Although the power consumption is low, things can get warm
Once, I measured over 70 degrees from the
CPU on an, admittedly, warm day while playing a DVD without
any tasks running in the background. Probably the relatively
poor airflow is to blame here. I am considering using the
opening next to the power connector at the backside to get
some airflow with a 40 mm fan located behind it. Maybe, it
will not be necessary; I will have to do some more CPU-demanding
Ok, that is more or less how this Commodore
got to run at a frequency 911 times its original speed. Last
week I got hold of a box full with original Commodore goodies
including a working C64, a PSU, datarecorder, joysticks and
disk-drive (all this set me back a full 8 euros on Ebay, damn
they get pricier every day), so a few things have been added
on the to-do list:
- Getting the keyboard to function. I tried
squeezing the standard PS2 foil in the keyboard but with limited
success and destroying the original wiring. Neil who built
the Commodore ITX-64 might provide
a solution here.
- Fitting an optical mouse in the original joystick. This
should be cheap, easy and fun to do. I"ll just have to
provide some room and make the "fire" switch to
function again :-)
- Hiding the camping PSU in the datarecorder. Fun and easy
Incorporating an infrared led somewhere on the casing for
communication with phone, PDA etc. The M9000 has fast-IR on
board you know
- Improving airflow to cool things down, as mentioned in the
Now that this little project is finished,
I will have to find myself something new to pass time with.
Maybe I should have closer look at that new M10000 board.
Hmm, tempting, maybe try a smaller HD drive,
fit it in a different case. Maybe create a whole bunch of
retro looking EPIAs. Let"s see, if we could just find
something nice to put it in
(Oh-oh, the Geek inside and Nostalgia took
I"ll let you know when the new toy is
up and running.